Givenchy Men's Spring Summer 2024

During Paris fashion week, Givenchy stood out with their spring 2024 collection, capturing everyone's attention. The arrival of Creative Director Matthew M. Williams, who also co-founded 1017 ALYX 9SM, in June 2020 was a significant turning point for the brand. His unique style, characterized by biker-inspired elements and technical accents, seamlessly blended with Givenchy's aesthetic, resulting in an exceptional showcase. 

1017 ALYX 9SM’s fall 2019 ready to wear collection consists mostly of black attire with silver hardware. Model: N/A Source: Alessandro Lucioni

The show took place at the historic military monument Hôtel des Invalides, which was fitting for the line. The location is home to museums and monuments of the military history of France which perfectly coincide with the inspiration for the line.  In an interview with Hypebeast, Williams said he drew inspiration from his children who wear utilitarian-like uniforms at school. He notes that the line speaks to men and women of all ages. 

Hôtel des Invalides comprises buildings in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, France. Source: Timeout (left) Britiannica (right)

In this collection, Williams defied traditional formal wear and pushed the boundaries of runway collections. The lineup featured a range of pieces, including oversized windbreakers, blazers, and vests, deviating from the norm. While elements from his work at ALYX were subtly incorporated, it was not excessive. The ensembles exuded a streetwear vibe, achieved through a fusion of proportion play and hints of school uniform inspiration.

Williams showcases remarkable skill in elevating everyday basics to new heights in this collection. The accessories featured in the line possess a versatile quality, easily adaptable for both dressed-up and casual occasions. Their simplicity allows them to effortlessly complement a wide range of outfits. Notably, the bags and backpacks in the collection lack a prominent structure, adding an "on the go" aesthetic that enhances any ensemble.

Caption: Issa Fissirou walks the show with a bright yellow windbreaker to complete his timeless schoolboy outfit. Model: Issa Fissirou Source: Vogue

In a departure from the traditional 1/3 top and 2/3 bottoms rule for balancing the body, this line takes the opposite approach, and it works incredibly well. The model wears an oversized windbreaker that, despite its size, looks absolutely fantastic on him due to the thoughtful incorporation of other elements. The tie he wears ends at his waistline, preventing his body from getting lost beneath the jacket. Additionally, to add another level of sophistication to the windbreaker, Williams revealed that they were double-faced, a meticulous technique typically reserved for tailored cashmere garments. Throughout the entire collection, there is a clear modernization of school attire, and Williams successfully blends quality craftsmanship with a casual aesthetic. It's apparent that his inspiration draws from his children, as European school uniforms often consist of boys wearing a button-up shirt, tie, and blazer.

Caption: Soulemane Tounkara stuns in a oversized coat and trousers. Model: Soulemane Tounkara Source: Vogue

With the resurgence of the 80s trend this season, exemplified by Marc Jacobs' recent collection and others, this particular look hits the mark. It evokes the classic 80s trench coat with its broader shoulder silhouette. The use of a heather gray color for the jacket and pants, instead of a solid shade, adds depth and dimension to the ensemble. While there are elements inspired by business uniforms, this look leans towards an everyday, on-the-go style. It would have been even more striking if the jacket extended to touch the model's feet, creating a more exaggerated, utilitarian-inspired effect. It would be interesting to see a woman experimenting with a similar outfit, as the combination of disproportionate pieces has the potential to be rocked by anyone with confidence.

Caption: Teun van Stein wears a utility jacket paired with oversized shorts and boots. Model: Teun van Stein Source: Vogue

This look effortlessly combines contrasting elements in a surprising way that doesn't clash. One notable feature is the positioning of the jacket and shirt at the model's waistline, while the undershirt extends past it. While this might create the illusion of a shorter body, the presence of long shorts counteracts this effect and actually produces the opposite result. The standout piece for me is the jacket, which exudes a military uniform vibe, especially when paired with chunky boots. The undershirt, accompanied by the side bag, embodies the essence of a uniform.

Williams has ingeniously infused traditional attire with his own unique touch, revitalizing it in the process. Having witnessed the remarkable rise of ALYX in recent years, I initially associated Williams solely with streetwear. So, it was incredibly refreshing to see the fusion of both brands in a seamless manner, without it being overly apparent. The subtle incorporation of streetwear elements in this collection harmonizes perfectly with the overarching utilitarian aesthetic. Williams fearlessly explores new territories outside his comfort zone, and he succeeds by maintaining the essence of his inspiration while making subtle adjustments. I eagerly anticipate future creations from Williams, as I have no doubt he will continue to deliver exceptional results.